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Hot food trend: Smoked fish

Holy mackerel! (And herring and trout.) It's not just about salmon anymore. Today's chefs are smoking everything for healthy oils, deep flavour and a new take on the catch of the day.
By Malcolm Jolley, goodfoodrevolution.com
Photo by Michael Wissing/Stockfood Radish Salad with Smoked Trout; Photo by Michael Wissing/Stockfood

From Montreal to Vancouver and beyond, restaurants everywhere are concocting palate-pleasing dishes with smoked fish. These are some of our favourite plates worth travelling for.

1. Le Filet, 219 Ave. du Mont-Royal O., Montreal

With windows overlooking Mount Royal Park and funky murals of life under the sea, Le Filet serves seafood to Outremont's young professionals.

The chef: Yasu Okazaki presents a playful small-plates menu that can be easily shared.

The dish: Smoked Mackerel Rillettes is a pescatarian take on the rough pork pâté, brightened by lemon oil and served with thin toasts for spreading.

Le Filet, Montreal Le Filet, Montreal

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2. Edulis, 169 Niagara St., Toronto

With a cracking husband-and-wife team at the helm, Edulis opened last year and topped many best-new-restaurant lists.

The chef: Michael Caballo quietly works gastronomic classics into elegant dishes for modern tastes.

The dish: Lightly Smoked Herring à L'Huile comes in a vibrant terrine dish and is brimming with sunflower oil, carrots, onions and tender fish, all accompanied by a little pot of creamy boiled potatoes flecked with chives. Simple, fresh and flavourful.

Edulis Restaurant April 13 p34

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3. Raincity Grill, 1193 Denman St., Vancouver

By the beach, overlooking stunning English Bay, Raincity Grill holds a place in the hearts of Vancouver locavores who come for its famous tasting menu composed of ingredients from within 100 miles.

The chef: Hot young chef de cuisine Nicolas Hipperson is passionate in his commitment to sustainable seafood.

The dish: Smoked Salmon Pâté comes with brioche, chili mayo, crispy fried capers and watercress salad.

Raincity Grill Restaurant April 13 p34
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4. St. John (Smithfield), 26 St. John St., London, England

Fergus Henderson and Trevor Gulliver's famous restaurant not only celebrates less-popular cuts of meat, it also showcases overlooked smaller fish.

The chef: Chris Gillard will nearly always have smoked fish on the menu, including eel, sprats and Scottish haddock.

The dish: Arbroath Smokies are haddock fillets served on a mash of potatoes or parsnips and topped with a poached duck egg or a creamy butter sauce.

St. John Restaurant April 13 p34

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