A gel nail polish manicure gives us weeks of chip-free wear and a chic, ultra-glossy finish, but removing it is a painstaking process. Because gel nail polish is cured under a UV light, it dries down to a much harder finish than regular air-dried lacquer—which means your regular remover just won’t cut it.
Gel nail polish removal is often better left to the pros, but with salons shutting down in an effort to contain the COVID-19 pandemic, we have to take the matter into our own hands (ah!). With the right tools and a lot of patience, removing gel nail polish from salon brands such as Shellac, CND and OPI can be done in around 30 minutes from the comfort of your couch. To guide us, we asked Leeanne Colley, owner of Toronto-based salon Tips Nail Bar, to spill her secrets on how to make a gel polish mani last longer—and how to remove it without damage when the time comes.
How to extend the life of your gel polish manicure
If you’re not quite ready to let go of your gel polish manicure, there are a few clever hacks that can extend its life until your next salon visit (or until you can get your hands on everything you need to safely remove it at home).
First, don’t pick at the chips or peel off gel polish, as tempting as it may be. “Our nails are made up of about 50 layers of keratin,” explains Colley. “Gel polish adheres to the keratin on your nails and picking at it actually takes layers off of your nail, which creates damage.”
To save a chipped mani, Colley suggests filing down the nail to smooth down the affected spot, so you’re not tempted to pick at it. If the chip is still showing, match the colour to a nail polish shade you have at home to cover the spot.
Colley also shares a brilliant tip to extend the life of a grown out gel polish manicure. First, file your nails to your desired length. (She recommends avoiding nail clippers, as it can create tiny cracks in the polish.) Then, put that forgotten bottle of glitter polish to good use. “Just drop the glitter in the area around your cuticle to give it a nail art effect and fill in the area that’s grown out,” she says.
Ready to say goodbye to your chipped, grown out manicure? Here’s a simple step-by-step guide to removing gel nail polish at home without damaging your nails.
Step 1: Gather your tools
The good news is that you most likely already have (almost) everything you need to take off gel polish in your beauty stash and kitchen drawers. If you don’t, you can find each item (or pre-made kits) at your local drugstore, or buy them online and have them delivered straight to your door.
To take off your gel polish, you’ll need a coarse nail file, paper towels or cotton balls, aluminum foil, acetone polish remover, a cuticle pusher (either stainless steel or an orangewood stick), a nail buffer and cuticle oil (or a few drops of your favourite face oil).
Before you start, cut up 10 small squares of paper towel (large enough to cover each nail) and 10 small strips of aluminum foil (large enough to wrap around your fingertips to keep the paper towel squares in place).
Pink Salon Nail File, $2, walmart.ca.
Step 2: File off the shiny top coat
Before you reach for the acetone, gently sand down the shiny top layer off all ten nails with a coarse nail file. This step breaks down the gel seal and allows the acetone to seep through the polish and start lifting the colour and base coat.
You want to scratch the shiny surface—but not entirely remove the polish underneath. “When you start seeing nail polish colour on your file, that’s when you should stop,” says Colley. If you sand all the way down to your natural nail, you run the risk of damaging it.
Quo 100% Acetone, $5, shoppersdrugmart.ca.
Step 3: Soak your nails in acetone wraps
Once you’ve buffed the shiny top coat off every nail, it’s time for an acetone nail polish remover soak. At this stage, you may be tempted to try to speed things up by soaking both hands at once, but Colley advises against it. “The biggest tip is to just be patient,” she says. “Do one hand, complete it, and then move on to the other hand”.
Start by saturating a piece of paper towel or a cotton ball in acetone. Here, more is more. “You want it to be almost dripping wet,” says Colley.
Next, place the piece of paper towel over your nail and wrap it tightly in a square of aluminum foil. “Acetone evaporates, so if the package that’s wrapped around your nail isn’t as tight as you can get it, air is getting in there, fighting against the acetone and slowing it down,” she continues. Repeat the process for each finger of the hand you’re working on.
Alternatively, you can pour the acetone in a bowl and soak your fingers directly in it. However, Colley prefers the wrap technique, as it’s easy and mess-free.
Perfection Stainless Steel Cuticle Pusher, $10, walmart.ca.
Step 4: Scrape off the gel nail polish
Let your nails soak for about 15 minutes, then remove the wrap from one finger. The gel polish should be lifting and look like it’s falling off the nail.
Next, use the stainless steel or wooden cuticle pusher to gently scrape the polish from the nail, working on one finger at a time. If the gel polish isn’t lifting easily, place the foil wrap back on (making sure the acetone-soaked paper towel or cotton ball is lined up with your nail) and wait another 5 minutes, suggests Colley.
Repeat the process for each nail, then move on to the other hand. This is the perfect time to catch up on your latest Netflix obsession or have a guilt-free scroll through Instagram.
H&M Nail Buffer Block, $5, hm.com.
Step 5: Buff your nails
Once each nail is mostly polish-free, use the gentler side of a buffing block to smooth out any remaining roughness. “The purpose of the buffer is to remove any last little bits that are on your nails and give you a smooth finish,” says Colley.
Essie Apricot Cuticle Oil, $13, shoppersdrugmart.ca.
Step 6: Hydrate, hydrate, hydrate
Acetone is notoriously drying on both nails and skin, so now is the perfect time to give your hands some TLC. “The next step would be to use a cuticle oil [on and around the nails],” suggests Colley. If you don’t have cuticle oil at home, she recommends using coconut oil or a few drops of your favourite face oil to keep your tips moisturized.
Clarins Hand and Nail Treatment Cream, $35, thebay.com.
Whether you decide to give your nails a polish break or jump straight into a colourful at-home mani, Colley says moisture is the key to strong, healthy nails. “A lot of our clients use cuticle oil every night as a way of extending their manicure. It creates a flexibility between the nail and the polish,” she continues. “Adding hydration and moisture to your nails and skin is one of the best things you can do.”
For an extra dose of hydration, apply your favourite hand cream every time you wash your hands.