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The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coast

From Whitehorse, Yukon, to tiny Port Rexton in Newfoundland and Labrador, here's what's brewing in the craft beer scene across the country
craft beer Canada Craft beer is booming — and we have just the (fantasy) two-four to celebrate.

Beer has long been a part of the fabric of Canada. European settlers brought it here in the 1600s, and the first brewery dates back to the late 1660s. First Nations had been brewing spruce beer for many generations before that. But it’s only over the past few years that craft beer and microbreweries that produce it (a microbrewery brews less than 50,000 hectolitres of beer a year) have really taken off. In 2006, there were less than 90 microbreweries operating in Canada. By the end of 2015, there were 610, according to the most recent stats from Beer Canada.

While the majority of microbreweries are in or around major cities — 80 percent are in the population-rich provinces of Ontario, B.C. and Quebec — craft beer has started to flourish in places that were previously dominated by the big breweries, like the East Coast.

To showcase all of the delicious beer being brewed across the country, I’ve put together a mix of my favourites along with beers I’m desperate to try. Because of Canada’s Importation of Intoxicating Liquors Act, each province has its own set of rules around beer crossing borders, making it tricky and costly for breweries to sell their product out of province. So, sadly, many of these beers aren’t available from coast to coast, but each is, of course, available at the brewery. Here, the ultimate fantasy Canadian two-four — from Yukon Brewing in the west to Port Rexton Brewing Company in the east.

Canada beer 2-4 east to west

Whitehorse, Yukon: Midnight Sun, Yukon Brewing

Yukon Brewing first opened its doors in 1997. From their tagline “Beer Worth Freezin’ For” to the names of their brews — Longest Night; Ice Fog; Yukon Gold — the spirit of the territory is in everything they do. Midnight Sun, an espresso stout, is a collaboration with the owner of a local coffee company and has won silver and bronze Canadian Brewing awards. Yukon Brewing describes it as “full-bodied yet smooth, rich with coffee aromas and flavours without ever losing sight of the fact that it’s beer.”

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Yukon Brewing; Artwork, Nathalie Parenteau.

Victoria: Amnesiac, Phillips Brewing & Malting Company

Phillips Brewing & Malting Company started back in 2001 as a one-man operation, in a small, windowless apartment in Victoria, B.C. From the get-go, owner-brewer-jack-of-all-trades Matt Phillips cranked out unconventional, creative beers. While the brewery has grown exponentially since its apartment days, their beer stays just as deliciously off-the-wall. Amnesiac, their double IPA, is a 8.5% ABV (alcohol by volume) hop assault in the best possible way.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Phillips Brewing & Malting Company.

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Vancouver: Flagship IPA, Steamworks Brewery

Canada’s only steam-generated brewery, Steamworks has been making beer for nearly 20 years, first in Vancouver’s Gastown and now in nearby Burnaby. Their Flagship IPA — brewed with a hop trifecta of Mosaic, Galaxy and Citra hops — most recently won Best in Show at the 2016 BC Beer Awards (the first time a female brewer has won this award).

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Steamworks Brewery.

Delta, B.C.: Nectarious, Four Winds Brewing

Four Winds Brewing focuses on unique West Coast and European styles of beer — hoppy IPAs, funky saisons, refreshing weisses and more. Nectarious, a dry-hopped sour (dry hopped = adding hops late in the brewing process to increase hop aroma but not bitterness; sour = beer that has specific strains of good bacteria added during brewing to create a, well, sour flavour) picked up the Beer of the Year at the 2016 Canadian Brewing Awards.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Four Winds Brewing.

Kelowna, B.C.: Amigo Mexican Amber Lager, Tree Brewing Company

Tree Brewing Company, open since 1996, has an extensive lineup, but is mostly known for its hop-forward styles. This past spring, Tree Brewing joined the session beer (beer under 5% alcohol by volume) trend with the release of Amigo Mexican Amber Lager. Charting in at just 4% ABV, Amigo has a light body, malt aroma and a subtle hop finish.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Tree Brewing Company.

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Yellowhead County, Alberta: Northern Grace, Bench Creek Brewing

Bench Creek Brewing, situated on 37 acres of almost-untouched wilderness in rural Yellowhead County, about 200 km west of Edmonton, offers six beers as part of their regular take-home repertoire, and occasional experimental one-off brews at local pubs. Northern Grace, a red rye IPA (an IPA brewed with the addition of malted rye grains, to give the beer a tangy and spicy flavour), is their flagship beer.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Bench Creek Brewing.

Edmonton: Aprikat, Alley Kat Brewing

Brewing beer is a laborious process with a lot of by-product (waste water, spent grain), but Alley Kat Brewing came up with several ways to reduce their waste. They recycle all of their spent grain into cattle feed and capture and reuse as much of the excess hot water from the brewing process as they can. And they like to use all-natural flavouring in their beer, like the pure apricot extract used in Aprikat — their take on a traditional wheat ale.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Alley Kat Brewing.

Yellowknife: KickSled Cream Ale, NWT Brewing Company

NWT Brewing Company is the northernmost brewery in Canada. Their KickSled Cream Ale won bronze at the 2016 Canadian Brewing Awards. Light-bodied with a creamy head, KickSled promises to be the perfect all-weather beer.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Pat Kane Photography.

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Swift Current, Saskatchewan: Milk Stout, Black Bridge Brewery

What started as a basement home-brewing operation in 2002 turned into a professional business for Clayton and Kari Stenson in 2014, when they opened Black Bridge Brewery in Swift Current, Saskatchewan. The Stensons named the brewery after a small iron bridge just south of the town that’s been the subject of many myths (and rumoured hauntings) over the years. Black Bridge’s Milk Stout won bronze at the Canadian Brewing Awards in 2015 and silver in 2016. BBB describes it as a dark black beer with an aroma of chocolate and dried fruit, roasted malt flavour and creamy mouth feel ­­— making it top of the list for Canadian beers I want to try.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Black Bridge Brewery.

Saskatoon: Saskatcheweizen, Paddock Wood Brewing Company

Paddock Wood Brewing is Saskatchewan’s first microbrewer. Their Saskatcheweizen is a Hefeweizen (a south-German style of wheat beer made with a high ratio of wheat and a strain of yeast that has a distinctive banana flavour), with traditional hints of fruit and clove.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Paddock Wood Brewing Company.

Winnipeg: Le Sneak Belgique, Barn Hammer Brewing Company

Barn Hammer Brewing Company, which opened in July 2016, is home to Winnipeg’s first taproom (tasting room). And every third Wednesday of the month, Barn Hammer hosts a “Barn Raising Night,” where $1 from every beer sold is donated to a chosen local non-profit organization. It’s a prime opportunity to try one of their best sellers, Le Sneak Belgique — a witbier (a Belgian-style ale often referred to as a “white beer” because of its cloudy light appearance) spiced with coriander, bitter orange peel and black pepper.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Symon Ptashnick PTASH Film & Photography.

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Seaforth, Ontario: Mingus Dew, Half Hours on Earth

Half Hours on Earth is a small brewery that specializes in funky, American/Belgian farmhouse-style ales, or as they put it “beers that impart a refreshing dryness with yeast forward flavour and aromatic characteristics… often combined with tartness, funk, fruit, hops.” Mingus Dew is Half Hour’s dry-hopped table sour. A little bit hoppy, a little bit funky, and only a little bit boozy (it comes in at a low 3.8%), it’s a great patio beer or even a brunch mimosa alterative.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Half Hours on Earth.

Sudbury, Ontario: Impact, Stack Brewing

As one of the only breweries operating in Northern Ontario, Stack Brewing filled a very dry void when it opened in 2013. Taking inspiration from Sudbury’s mining industry, all of their core beers have names that reference the Nickel City’s past. Impact, Stack’s Altbier (a copper-coloured German-style ale that’s conditioned for a longer period of time to give the beer a smoother texture and balanced malt and hop flavour), is named after the meteorite strike that created the basin in which the city is built.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Stack Brewing and Studio123.

Collingwood, Ontario: Wheat Ale, Side Launch Brewing

Less than two years after opening, Side Launch Brewing won the Brewery of the Year award at the 2016 Canadian Brewing Awards. Side Launch’s Wheat Ale is an unfiltered ale (yeast is intentionally not filtered out prior to bottling/canning to give the beer a specific taste, texture — and a hazy appearance) with notes of “banana, spicy clove and citrus.”

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Side Launch Brewing.

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Toronto: Jelly King, Bellwoods Brewery

Located in the heart of the city Bellwoods Brewery has had a cult following since they first opened their doors in 2012, and routinely sells out. To keep up with demand, they had to open a second production facility and tasting room in the north part of the city in 2016. One of their most sought-after beers is Jelly King, a dry-hopped sour. A mixed-fermentation ale, soured with Bellwood’s own blend of lactobacillus and dry-hopped with citra hops, it’s juicy and sour, with notes of peach and tangerine. It’s also often brewed with different types of fruit.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Celine Kim.

Etobicoke, Ontario: Canuck Pale Ale, Great Lakes Brewery

Celebrating their 30th anniversary this year, and winner of back-to-back Brewery of the Year awards at the 2013 and 2014, Great Lakes Brewery is known for its hop-forward, boundary-pushing beers. In 2013 GLB introduced its Tank Ten Series — they allowed their brewmaster, Mike Lackey, to brew whatever he wanted in their 10th tank, hence the name — which quickly became a cult favourite. Since each run in the Tank Ten Series is limited, people often line up for hours on release day (looking at you, Karma Citra IPA) to secure a can (or 20). A super-solid, year-round offering is Canuck Pale Ale (originally released for the Vancouver Olympics, and now a core staple). It’s an American Pale Ale with a soft carbonation, medium body, sweet beginning and a dry finish.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Great Lakes Brewery.

Ottawa: Vim & Vigor, Tooth and Nail Brewing Company

Tooth and Nail Brewing Company is less than two years old, but they’re already generating quite a buzz. Their Vim & Vigor Pilsner is a favourite among locals and beer-industry insiders. A German-style Pilsner (lighter bodied, drier and less bitter than Czech-style Pilsners), it’s crisp and refreshing with a clean malt backbone and pleasant hop presence.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Tooth and Nail Brewing Company.

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Shawinigan, Quebec: La Saison du Tracteur, Le Trou du Diable

In operation since December 2005, Le Trou Du Diable is considered one of the forefathers of experimental craft beer, and has the hardware to prove it. For La Saison du Tracteur, Le Trou De Diable took a classic saison (a European farmhouse-style beer known for its distinctive yeast flavour and spiciness) recipe using authentic saison yeast, and put their own twist on it by adding American hops to the mix. The result is a hoppy, funky beer that has won 10 brewing awards since 2010.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Le Trou du Diable.

Nackawic, N.B.: Stone Maple Amber Ale, Big Axe Brewery

Ever wanted to sleep in a brewery? Well now you can! OK, not exactly, but Big Axe Brewery and B&B is both a brewery and a bed & breakfast. Located on the shore of Saint John River, Big Axe offers three suites to choose from on the second floor, and a selection of beers that incorporate local ingredients. Their Stone Maple Amber Ale is made with maple sap from a local sugary, Stone Family Maple Sugary, and they describe it as having an amber red pour with a creamy head and a subtle caramel, sweet maple aroma.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Big Axe Brewery.

Halifax: Pollyanna, 2 Crows Brewing Company

Halifax’s 2 Crows Brewing Company is one of the newest breweries on our list, having just opened this past January. Within five short months, they’ve built up quite a following, especially for their wild northeast IPA, Pollyanna. With a strong 7.3% ABV, and what 2 Crows describes as a juicy tropical flavour, it sounds perfect for sipping on a hot afternoon.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, 2 Crows Brewing Company.

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Dartmouth, N.S.: ESB, Propeller Brewing

Propeller Brewing, a 20-year veteran of the Canadian craft beer scene in Dartmouth, is known for their well-balanced brews — the hops and malts perfectly playing off each other no matter the style of beer. Propeller’s ESB, also known as English-Style Bitter or Extra-Special Bitter, is a great example. (The name of this style is a bit of a misnomer, as the beer itself is not really bitter — it’s actually more malty than anything.) Its sweet caramel flavour and chocolate aroma is supported by a malt and hop backbone.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Propeller Brewing.

Tatamagouche, N.S.: North Shore Lagered Ale, Tatamagouche Brewing Company

Housed in a former butcher shop, Tatamagouche Brewing has been making beer in Nova Scotia since 2014. The brewmaster, Matt Kenny, has been with Tatamagouche since the start (leaving a career in insurance to brew beer full-time). He won his first brewing award within a year of opening: North Shore Lagered Ale took home bronze in the kolsch category at the 2015 Canadian Brewing Awards. North Shore is top fermented like an ale, and then cold aged for a long period of time, like a lager, to give it a distinctive crispness.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Tatamagouche Brewing Company.

Charlottetown: Beach Chair Lager, P.E.I Brewing Company

P.E.I. Brewing Company won gold and silver medals at the 2012 Canadian Brewing Awards and a silver in 2013. Beach Chair Lager, a crisp lager that’s cold conditioned (the beer is fermented at a cool temperature, which helps the yeast settle faster and reduces the need for filtration) for an extra-clean tasting final product, was the first canned craft beer produced in Atlantic Canada. At just 4.3% ABV, it makes for a great afternoon session beer.

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, P.E.I Brewing Company.

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Port Rexton, Newfoundland: Horse Chops, Port Rexton Brewing Company —

The craft beer scene in Newfoundland is enjoying a renaissance. Up until a few years ago, it was hard to find any beer other than the mass-produced staples, but now there are enough craft breweries in operation that the province can host their own annual beer festival. One of the newcomers is Port Rexton Brewing Company, owned by couple Alicia MacDonald and Sonja Mills, which opened in 2016. Their Horse Chops is a dry-hopped West Coast–style American IPA they describe as having a “soft maltiness and medium body that finishes dry with floral and citrus notes.”

The ultimate Canadian two-four: Our dream craft beer collection, from coast to coastPhoto, Farrell Cahill.


Canada Project

This post is part of The Canada Project, a representative survey of Canadians from across the country. You can find out more right here.


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