Welcome to bountiful Barcelona: a travel guide

On a walkabout

Technically The Mercat de Sant Josep de la Boqueria is a food market, one of the biggest and most popular in the city. But so many shops have set up counters and offer full meals, it hardly seems fair to characterize this chaotic, loud and thoroughly enjoyable spot as a mere market. Maybe foodie paradise is more accurate. Just wandering through aisles jammed with produce, cheese, eggs, Iberian ham and candy is fun — and free! — but nothing beats actually sampling the goods. Grab fresh juice, snacks and a treat and have a picnic in one of the nearby squares, or settle in at one of the many tiny cafés for an affordable lunch.

Perched high above the city on Montjuïc, one of the two hills that frame Barcelona, Parc de Montjuic is a popular place to while away a day. Wander through the botanical gardens, where plants from regions with a Mediterranean climate are arranged according to their respective ecosystems, demonstrating the similarities between parts of Australia, California, South Africa and the Mediterranean basin. Explore the park’s three museums, which are devoted to archaeology, sport and art, respectively. And definitely take the cable car to the top of the hill to see Castell de Montjuïc, a fortress built in the mid-1600s that’s now a military museum.

You can’t see Barcelona without seeing beautiful buildings designed by Antoni Gaudí — literally. The architect’s work can be found throughout the city, sitting side by side with shops, cafés and sometimes even one another. The gorgeous Casa Batlló sits on Passeig de Gràcia, not far from Chanel and Gucci (and Mango and Zara, for the more budget-minded among us). Casa Milà, an apartment building and the last project Gaudí completed before devoting all his time to the Sagrada Familia, sits just up the avenue. And of course the famous basilica, the master architect’s final work, is still under construction in the middle of the city. It might just be the only monument that really is different every time you see it. Park Güell is a little further afield, located on El Carmel, a hill at the north end of the city, but it’s one of the best spots to spend an afternoon in the city. Originally intended to be a housing site inspired by the English garden city movement, the project was an abject failure. Today, it features a gorgeous oval church, gardens and some of Gaudí’s most inventive houses.

It’s not an exaggeration to say that shopping in Spain is fabulous and there’s no better place to test that theory than Passeig de Gràcia, one of the city’s most famous avenues. High street shops like Zara, Mango and H&M rub shoulders with designer boutiques, everything from Prada to Stella McCartney to Valentino. But the real draw for visitors is the selection of Euro-only shops. Check out the mid-range accessories at Follie Follie, inexpensive, on-trend offerings at Bershka and take the opportunity to wander through & Other Stories and Cos, both higher-end offerings from that Swedish cheap chic titan, H&M.

<b>Indulge in delicious eats

Totally unassuming from the outside, Cal Pep in the Gothic Quarter is quite possibly the most famous tapas restaurant in Barcelona, and for good reason. There’s no menu here; instead, diners give the waiter the barest guidelines — whether they’d prefer seafood, meat or veggies and how many dishes they’d like — and the chef prepares whatever catches his fancy: classic tapas, amazing seafood, and for dessert, Cal Pep’s signature crema catalana, the Spanish version of crème brûlée. It’s super-busy, and has appropriately Spanish hours (1pm to 3:45pm for lunch and 7:30pm to 11:30pm for dinner, though it’s closed for lunch on Mondays, dinner on Saturdays and all day Sunday), so be sure to arrive early and be prepare for lineups!

Set amidst the high-end shops of Passeig de Gràcia, the city’s most popular shopping street, the walls of QuQu restaurant are plastered in prints of beautifully designed book covers. There’s both a patio and a cosy second floor, but go for lunch and try the bar menu for the best value. An appetizer (tortilla Espanola, the Spanish version of an omelette), three tapas, a glass of wine (or cerveza, if you’re so inclined) and a cup of coffee comes in at less than €10. Try the classics, like padrón peppers (small, Galician peppers that are fried and sprinkled with coarse salt), patatas bravas (crispy potato wedges, doused in aioli and spicy tomato sauce) and various croquettes, but don’t discount more familiar fare, like the really tasty chicken strips!

Tucked on a side street just off La Rambla, Barcelona’s main avenue, you'll find Chök: The Chocolate Kitchen, a tiny bakery that's devoted to tasty treats. Artisanal marshmallows, cake pops, donuts, a handful of cookie varieties, each more tasty than the last, cupcakes, macarons the size of your head… If you’re very lucky, you might even catch a glimpse of crispy, kettle cooked potato chips getting drizzled in rich chocolate and sprinkled with sea salt in the open kitchen. If you do, get some. It’s a must.

Sleep sound

Something about the boutique hotel, Hotel Miramar, set halfway up Montjuïc, feels very Old Hollywood. The original palace was built in 1929 for the Universal Exhibition, and the building was restored and opened as a hotel in 2006. Its pale pink façade and Art Deco architecture overlook a sandy courtyard, complete with decorative fountain and gorgeous views of both the city and the sea. It’s a short drive or a quick trip on the funicular to get downtown, but the appeal of Hotel Miramar is its getaway vibe. Take advantage of the luxurious spa, relax by the outdoor pool or just hang out in the lobby, which feels like it’s been decked out in miles of creamy marble.

Modern, reasonably priced and centrally located, Hotel Barcelona Universal is an excellent mid-range option. La Rambla is about five minutes away on foot, and there’s a metro stop right outside the building. The service is excellent — staff at the front desk will happily play virtual tour guide, marking points of interest on a map (which they provide, of course) and even offering advice on the best way to get there. Rooms are spacious and well-appointed, with hardwood floors and contemporary, if a little bland, décor. It’s worth checking out the rooftop terrace, where there’s a pool, lounge chairs and really great views of the city.

Well into the night

One of the more established clubs in Barcelona, Carpe Diem Lounge Club celebrated its 10th birthday last year. It’s owned by former Barcelona FC player Patrick Kluivert and is as known for its parties as for its menu — eclectic, pan-Asian fare; think dumplings, lamb tagine, Kobe beef Carpaccio. Start the night with dinner, especially if you can eat in one of the private, Bedouin-inspired tents, then head inside for some serious dancing.

Venture across the courtyard from Hotel Miramar and you’ll find Martinez , a chic terrace restaurant with a relaxed, unpretentious atmosphere, perfect for low-key drinks before, or for that matter after, dinner. Service is sometimes dicey, but the view — and the cocktails! — are worth it.

Cafe de los Angelitos, a lively cocktail bar in Barceloneta, is a local favourite, which is totally unsurprising — service is friendly, the bartenders always pour a perfectly mixed drink and the tapas are particularly tasty. It’s one of the few spots in Barcelona that offer blended drinks, so if you fancy a margarita, this is the place to indulge.